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About otroviajero

Passionate traveller who loves that feeling when I realize that I'm in a corner of the world that I'd only previously heard or read about. When I'm not left breathless from admiring the world's endless beauty, I'm thinking about touching ground somewhere I haven't yet been and the amazing adventures and unforgettable interactions I'll have when I'm there.

Short reflections on the Camino de Santiago

El camino que camino es el mío – The path that I walk is my own

I filmed a few short videos while walking on the Camino de Santiago in May and June of 2013. In general, they show the amazing landscape that my eyes bore witness to, and the emotions and sentiments that I felt on the trails. I hope to go into more detail at some point, but I thought that I’d share these videos now (some are over 2 months old already!), lest they remain mere digital footprints on my iPhone that are left unshared. This, frankly, would be a shame – the Camino for me was an incredible, restorative 800-km journey buscando un poco más de la verdad: searching for a little more of the truth – my truth – what compelled me to walk such a large distance in a month’s time, to leave everything familiar and comforting to me behind, to put my faith in the unknown, to question how and why and humbly attempt to find answers, to trust and seek companionship in people who were just strangers before embarking on this pilgrimage…

I don’t pretend to have all the answers or speak of my experience as authoritative, but being an experience all the same, maybe there will be those who will want to seek out answers and search for their truth, and will be compelled to learn more about the ancient pilgrimage route that grows ever more popular in a world of increasing disillusion…

Camino de Santiago, Day 2

Camino de Santiago, Day 2, part 2

Camino de Santiago, Day 3

Camino de Santiago, Day 4

Camino de Santiago, Day 6

Travel updates

Looks like I haven’t posted anything in two and a half months!  It’s not for lack of anything to write, that’s for sure.  Initially, I wanted to take some time out while on the Camino de Santiago, and then I didn’t know where to begin blogging again once I had finished my pilgrimage.  And from there, it was just one place after another, with me overwhelmed about doing my experiences justice by putting into words everything that I lived and sensed and immersed myself in.  This post is a humble attempt to summarize where I’ve been the past few months and where I’m going the next few.

The past that has passed

My trip through France was leading me from the centre of the country down to the southwest to St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the starting point of the Camino de Santiago (Camino Frances, Way of St. James).  It was a great ten days exploring different cities in a country that I’d wanted to visit for so long, especially learning French throughout school.

The Camino de Santiago was an intense, unrelenting, unforgettable journey of the spirit that took my body from the Pyrenees all across northern Spain, walking on average between 20-30 kilometers a day with a rucksack on my back through rain, shine, and wind over all sorts of terrain.  I very much hope to write more about this experience because I believe that it has been the most significant thing that I have done with my life, and these mere words right now cannot possibly explain everything that my body, mind, and soul encountered during this blessed time.

I spent a few days in Santiago de Compostela, afforded with the luxury of sleeping in the same bed for more than one night and walking the same streets daily, even having a cafe that I frequented.  After moving around every day for the past month, it was a welcome change!  Then, I headed into northern Portugal for six days.  Portugal is a country that will always be on my list of places I want to return because of the friendliness and sincerity of the people.  Of course, there’s also the food, the port, the cities, the landscape, the Mediterranean way of life…

From Portugal, I flew to Morocco where I spent thirteen days.  Morocco is an explosion for the senses where everything hits you unapologetically and makes you feel more alive!  Everything from the exquisite food, the calls of the vendors in the souqs and its related hustle and bustle, the oppressive desert heat – it’s overwhelming and intoxicating, but somehow leaves you wanting more… DSC00669

After Morocco, it was back to Europe where I relaxed for a couple days in Madrid, then a few hours exploring Zurich and a few days in Budapest, Hungary where I did a few things that I hadn’t done during previous visits, like ride a railway line run by kids!  The conductor, of course, was an adult, but the selling and validating of the tickets were undertaken by kids 10-14 years old…

From Budapest, I took a train to Vienna where I didn’t do nearly as much as I would’ve liked due to an illness that unfortunately had me staying at hostels more often than seeing the city.  After moving on to Salzburg, however, I got my groove back and did plenty of hiking, including a 1400-metre ascent up the Untersberg mountain (part of the Alps), the accomplishment of which highly lifted my spirits!DSC01957

And now, I write this post on a couch in the common room of a hostel in Bled, Slovenia, where I have spent the past four nights.  Bled and the surrounding area is a haven for nature and adventure enthusiasts, and I’ve thorougly enjoyed the past few days strolling around Lakes Bled and Bohinj, taking a dip in pristine waters, appreciating a lazy boat ride, and of course, hiking – to waterfalls, through gorges, through quaint, picturesque towns…

Foreseeable future

There’s just under three months left of travel for me, and I do have at least a rough idea of where I’m going.  I’ll be heading to Ljubljana in a couple days, then southeast to Bosnia and Herzegovina (possibly with a short stop in Croatia), down to Montenegro and the wonderful
Adriatic Sea, then up to Serbia where I’ll catch a flight in Belgrade to London.

I’ll spend a few days in England with family and friends, then fly into Dusseldorf where I’ll meet up with a friend for a couple days before going to Brussels to meet up with another friend.  From there, I’ll fly to Tbilisi, Georgia – the beginning of a one month itinerary in the Caucasus which will also include visits to Armenia, and hopefully Azerbaijan, if I can secure a visa.

After this month, I’ll fly back to Belgrade from Tbilisi, and from there, round out the Balkans with forays into Albania, Kosovo, Macedonia, and Bulgaria before heading into Turkey where I’ll spend my last week or two before heading home!

Anyone care to join me?

One of those “Wow!” moments

Bonjour tout le monde! It’s been about a week since I’ve been travelling and so far, I’ve made my way through Madrid in Spain, and Lyon, Avignon, and Arles in France. Today, I had the greatest “Wow!” moment yet of my trip – you know, a moment where you’re just totally overwhelmed with the unique surroundings around you that you just literally have to stop in your tracks and say that word “wow” or something similar to it, thinking “how did I get here?” (and maybe spin slowly around in a circle once or twice with wide eyes and a dumbfounded expression, if you’re so inclined)…

view from the Tour Philippe le Bel, with the Fort Saint-André in the background

view from the Tour Philippe le Bel, with the Fort Saint-André in the background

Without getting very detailed, I made my way from the city centre of Avignon to a quaint little town called Villeneuve-lès-Avignon of winding lanes and faded red rooftops surrounded by verdant countryside. It’s just a 20-minute walk crossing the Rhône River, and not a minute passes by between marvelling at picturesque landscapes. Part of what’s so great about this town is that it’s largely devoid of tourists who flock en masse to the more renowned Avignon, and as such you largely have the town to yourself. You do have to share with the locals, though 😉 Feel free to climb the Tour Philippe le Bel, admire the incredible views from all directions from Fort Saint-André, walk the narrow streets without taking a look at your map, and quite simply marvel at the beauty of the environment around you!

beautiful, lush countryside of Provence - and it's only May!

beautiful, lush countryside of Provence – and it’s only May!

view of Villeneuve-les-Avignon from atop one of the towers of Fort Saint-André

view of Villeneuve-les-Avignon from atop one of the towers of Fort Saint-André

These “wow” moments can consist of anything – interactions with locals; seemingly coincidental encounters; finding yourself amidst a spectacular landscape; getting lost and not knowing the slightest idea on how to find your way back somewhere; being so far removed from what you’re familiar with and what you’re used to; an emotion that you rarely feel that has arisen from within you because of any of the above…Maybe, if the day arrives when I’m unable to have these type of “wow” moments when travelling, I’ll stop. But this traveller hopes that day will never arrive …

cool angle taken when walking away from the fort

cool angle taken when walking away from the fort

A bit of why I’m travelling for six months

I really don’t know exactly how long I’ve wanted to travel for such a long time, but I do know that this feeling has only increased with each voyage I’ve taken the last four years. And quite simply, the urge grew so strong and reached such a ferocity that I could no longer ignore it, no longer delay what has been pending for so long. For me, travel is my greatest passion, and it never fails to inspire and invigorate. Every interaction in a foreign land, every time I touch ground in a place I’ve never been, every encounter with a local or a fellow traveller just gives me so much energy. Through my explorations around the world, I’ve actually found that I’ve discovered countless wealth about myself, my strengths and weaknesses, comforts and anxieties, what I can live with and what I can do without, the person I perceive myself to be, the person I strive to be…

Travelling solo also gives you further insight into what you’re truly capable of – physically, mentally, spiritually… Away from everything and everyone you know and love and everything that you’re familiar with, it’s a constant opportunity to evaluate yourself independent of the preconceptions that you have lived with in your day-to-day life which you have always assumed or accepted as fact. Every day in this beautiful world of ours presents multiple opportunities to challenge yourself and your thinking and not give in or say yes or no to something simply because that’s how you’ve previously reacted. I marvel at the times that I’ve thought “I could never do that” and its dozens of variations, and realized that it was just a perceived limitation on my part, and that all too often the only thing stopping me from doing something is actually myself…

So, that’s a bit of why I travel so much. Join me here to read about my (mis)adventures during the next six months around Europe, with forays into north Africa and the Caucasus too. I’ll admit that I’m not the most disciplined in blogging, but I hope to share my thoughts and impressions here quite often…

By the hour

A look at the first 24 hours of my latest travels beginning 19 Nov 12:

04:45 iPhone wake-up call
05:45 leave home
06:45 arrive at YYZ, check-in
07:45 boarding
08:45 take-off!
09:45 I see NY state!
10:45 start reading book, feeding my Balkan fascination
11:45 attempt at some sleep
12:45 meal service over
14:09 touchdown at Panama City!
14:40 speaking Spanish in immigration; officer smiles trying to find an empty spot in my passport to stamp
15:00 I get on a colourful school bus just outside the airport, after failing to get onto a modern bus because I have no bus card
16:15 I recognize a building from 10 months ago after a long, crowded ride, get off the bus (surprised that the fare was just $0.25!)
17:00 get to Panama Viejo, disappointed that the museum is closed
17:20 get to posh Multicentro mall, have nice dinner
18:40 meet with taxi driver outside mall to take me back to PTY
19:40 arrive at PTY after lots of traffic
20:40 boarding for Santiago!
21:18 take-off!
22:20 dinner service, with a very sad-looking salad
23:20 attempt to sleep
00:20 falling asleep (gotta love the extra leg room in the exit row!)
01:20 snack service
05:22 touchdown in Santiago! (really 03:22 but lose 2 hours)

Back to where the ball got rolling

It’s no secret to my friends and family that I basically live, breathe, and, and eat to travel. It’s become a defining characteristic of who I am, and though I may not consider myself so, it’s flattering to hear people say that I’m brave, adventurous, a risk-taker…

Almost 4 years ago, I spent a couple months in Peru where I forged a seemingly instant connection with other volunteers at the home stay where I was living in Cusco. Two of them, Andy and Julia, were continuing their South American journey and I and two others, Kushal and Hiyasmin, tagged along for the wild, unforgettable ride. Though I’d done a bit of travelling before then, the weeks I spent with this amazing group of friends is one that I constantly look back upon with fond memories that never fail to put a smile on my face.

These weeks challenged me, provoked me, made me see life from a different angle, and were responsible for making me feel capable of so much more than I thought. These weeks in Chile and Argentina, staying in hostels, taking long distance bus rides, trekking every other day, climbing volcanoes, sliding down glaciers, seeing the beauty of Iguazu Falls, the splendor of Santiago, and the sophistication of Buenos Aires…

It’ll be interesting to revisit the capital cities of Chile and Argentina and see how they’ve changed, and reflect back on my time there where so many doors of my life were opened. I imagine that I’ll feel that bittersweet nostalgia more than once along the way.

Those weeks in Chile and Argentina was when the ball got rolling. At this point, the ball is unstoppable.

Flashback to volcano climb

I had a job interview yesterday and by far the most interesting question posed to me was to describe an achievement, personal or professional, that I have experienced and why it was so memorable.

Immediately, my mind floated back in time to March 2009 and the memory of Volcán Villarrica outside of Pucón, Chile. The past couple months had been filled with unforgettable days and nights of novel experiences – hikes to Incan ruins, new friendships, living in the jungle without electricity or internet, 24 hour bus rides, running down a sand hill in the Atacama desert – why not add climbing a volcano onto the list? So I joined my friends in planning to climb this volcano, blissfully unaware that it would be the most physically demanding activity of my life at that time and still is to this date.

Volcan Villarrica

Why was it such an accomplishment? Because the climb consisted of 5 and a half almost merciless hours of ascent, stopping periodically only for nourishment and rehydration, and being frequently reminded by our guides that we had to get to the top before the increasing winds and cloud cover threatened to prevent us from making it all the way. Part of the volcano was covered by a glacier, and we even had to sport special gear on our hiking boots part of the way to avoid slipping on the snow and ice. Continue reading

Belgrade rising

There’s an energy and authenticity to this city, one of the largest in the Balkans, that I can easily appreciate. Often during travelling, I feel like I’m just one of hundreds, perhaps thousands, walking around and doing the same thing. It’s a feeling that I dread and most times do my best to avoid; it’s usually not an issue here in Belgrade…

Zemun

Zemun – once the limit of the Austro-Hungarian Empire when the Turks controlled Belgrade

The beauty of Belgrade is that by and large, mass tourism is non-existent, or at the least much less obvious than most European cities. As such, it doesn’t put on a show for tourists and I can walk around the city and feel like I’m getting a sense of what the capital of Serbia is about. I think this is what makes Belgrade unique. True, a city like Belgrade has many similarities with other large cities – that faster pace of almost everything compared with being in the countryside or a small town; the pollution and noise of crazy speeding cars; higher prices (though still one of the most ridiculously cheap places I’ve visited in Europe). But to be sure, Belgrade as a city has its share of unique gems that easily attract the traveller’s eyes.

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La revedere, Romania

This post comes belatedly; as I post this, I am actually in Frankfurt and the majority of this post was written in the hostel lobby in Kotor, Montenegro. Naturally, I say that posts about Serbia, Montenegro, and Hungary are also upcoming, however sporadic they may be.

The list of places I want to visit is a long one, and the list keeps getting longer with each trip after hearing stories of adventure and intrigue from other travellers I meet. While my time in Romania was part of a longer Balkan/southeast Europe trip, I’m extremely glad that I ended up staying almost two weeks in the country. To be sure, two weeks is still a small fraction of time to spend in a country like Romania. I visited Bucharest, Brasov, Bran, Rasnov, Sighisoara, Sibiu, Cisnadie, Cisnadioara, Cluj, Suceava, Gura Humorului, the monasteries of Humor and Voronet, and Timisoara, and I feel like I’ve barely scratched the surface of this fascinating country.

Highlights

Bucharest

Palace of Parliament - Bucharest

Palace of Parliament – Bucharest


The capital city of Romania is an intriguing mix of brutalist Communist-era architecture, exemplified most strikingly by the gigantic Palace of Parliament, grandiose buildings built in the second half of the 19th century, and wide tree-lined boulevards which have once garnered the city the name “Paris of the East.” It’s a vibrant city where contrasts are the norm, definitely worth exploring despite what the guide books might say.

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The real Romania?

Yesterday (24 September 2012) was undoubtedly the most fulfilling day I’ve had in this beautiful country. I checked out of the hostel in Suceava in the morning, backpack and all, moved my way along to the neighbouring bus station, and took a bus southwest to the small town of Gura Humorului. From there I walked to the train station that looked as abandoned as some of the communist-era factories that one sees; fortunately there was a clerk and after combining my elementary Romanian with her elementary English, I was able to buy a ticket with a couchette reservation to Timișoara on the other side of the country to the west (a 661km overnight journey lasting 12 and a half hours). My fortune continued when she let me store my backpack in the station, freeing me of 15 kilos off my back.

Gura Humorului is a good base for exploring a couple of the famed monasteries in the region, namely Voroneț and Humor, each about 5 km away. While it’s possible to take a maxitaxi (essentially a shared cab the size of a large van) to these sites, me being me, I opted to walk and in retrospect, it’s a decision for which I’ll always be grateful. The road to Voroneț is a single winding lane and I feel like walking through it transports you back in time…

On road to Voronet Monastery

I could see up close and personal, without any filter, rural life in this country in which just over half the population lives in urban areas. And from what I experienced, it’s a country where horse-drawn carriages share the same road with cars and trucks; where the clean country air is cut by the powerful odour of manure; where cows, chickens, sheep, and goats roam and graze freely and outnumber the human population. It’s a Romania of endless cornfields, at this time already harvested (and hence, one can understand why mămăligă is so often found on the dinner table) and countryside of varying shades of green.

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